Second Life celebration in Toraja?

Toraja traditional houses

HOLIDAY TRAVELSome time ago, and Opera Kompasiana Indonesia held a competition in the travel-themed blog-Opera Kompasiana Competititon Travel Blog. There are about 157 posts that accumulated in it and selected 10 winners, among them the story of a trip in Toraja Land, written by Adi Persada Bayu, a blogger Kompasiana who managed to become the ultimate winner of this competition with the title of "Second Life Celebration at the Toraja".

These trips Bayu Adi Persada in Toraja land, also published in Kompasiana.com.


 Suddenly there are noises in the courtyard ceremony. The people cried aloud. I snapped and went to find out what happened. I was more surprised to see a pig running to nowhere. Apparently, the pig will be sacrificed regardless of the bond in a piece of bamboo. With bloodied bodies, pigs trying to break away from the crowd.


People around frantically to save themselves up to the houses immediately. Luckily, before long, the situation can be neutralized. Able to re-arrested and hog tied. That's the end of the heroic struggle of a pig to be sacrificed as part of a funeral ritual in Tana Toraja, South Sulawesi.


I got to the bus terminal in the city of Makassar Lita that night to continue the trip to Tana Toraja. Had time to marvel at the bus being too exclusive. Seriously. I was ready to ride any bus, but when later buses are available too comfortable, I feel lucky barrage began. The price is quite cheap, Rp 110,000 for an eight-hour overnight trip to Toraja. Comfortable chair, the distance between seats is wide enough. There's even a wi-fi (Wireless Fidelity). Modes of transportation that should be adapted to inter-provincial bus in Java.


Eight-hour trip was not so pronounced. I know, all of a sudden the bus had stopped that morning. It was still 5:00 am. Bus stop in front of the inn. I was still sleeping when the helper wake. From the beginning, I did ask the driver to lose me in a cheap inn also offers bike rentals.


Helper on the bus to drive me to the Hotel Bison, modest hotel near Ludhiana Highway. Only 20 meters from the highway. Although quite simple, very comfortable hotel. Price per night is very affordable, Rp 150,000, and they provide the motorcycles for rent for Rp 65,000 per day without fuel.


I do not have the luxury of time that day and had to use every minute to explore the unique city full of culture of this modest nan. At around 7:00 in the morning, I went to the hotel lobby to search for information. Not much information is given this hotel keeper. Luckily, I met John Chain, a guide whose house was adjacent to the hotel.


I hire the services of Sir John as a guide a full day. Price of services is quite cheap, around Rp. 150,000, has included gasoline motor. Actually, the normal rate of Rp. 250 000 not including the cost of gasoline. However, because it's not holiday season, I can get the best rates.


The first destination is the party that I visited the cemetery in the District of Kete Kesu. The party was quite modest compared to a funeral that is often reported to cost up to hundreds of millions and even billions of dollars. The bereaved family just happened to family farmers.


However, they still have to sacrifice three tails tedong (buffalo) and three tails bai (pig) as a friend to another world for the dead. Although few animals were sacrificed, the costs can reach tens or even hundreds of millions of dollars-the price of a buffalo was sold Rp 15-30 million and one pig Rp 1-3 million. Currently plus other costs.


I tried to probe into. To greet the grieving family, then to the kitchen was busy. Voices heard through out the mothers who are girl talk and scratch pot voice. I had time to capture their unique activities, while chewing something, whatever, Toraja coffee black, and a rice bowl.


Although I looked familiar, but they are very friendly. Shortly thereafter, I was offered a cup of coffee and pastries typical Toraja made of brown rice.


Sir John then tells a lot about the burial ritual. Toraja people consider that there are two lives should be lived. Before and after death. When dead, they should be treated special by the happiness of life after death. Puya, or is the world after death to the Toraja. The animals are sacrificed for a friend who died in the Puya. A procession to raise that have passed away.


Then, I stopped by the grave stones in the village of Lemo, District Sanggalange. Named grave stone because his body was buried in the rock cliffs. Besides buried there, also made a replica of a wooden clothes complete with custom.


Some of the graves there are still new. There are also new carvings made in preparation for the funeral last place people who died afterwards.


"While it looks small, it is actually a huge hole in it. Could accommodate some of the bodies, "said Mr. John, pointing to a tomb in the cliffs.


Each side of a cliff on the hill was covered with a replica of the wooden grave. I had the opportunity around the cliffs to the sides are different and have always found the graves of other stones. According to Mr. John, the back and hidden, it means that the lower caste people.


Cemetery around the stone, a lot of local people who sell handicrafts typical Toraja. In addition to the unique, the price is not too expensive. Beautiful handmade cloth over 2 meters, for example, is only priced at Rp 60,000 - Rp 80,000. Sculptures typical Toraja with pairs of parents diharga Rp 25,000 - Rp 60,000, depending on size.


The next destination to the baby or the baby's burial grave. The location is just a huge tree covered with coco-coir as a cover of black hole where the babies were buried. The tree is reserved for infants who died in the womb or younger than 6 months.


From there, we went to a traditional market in the village Tokesan. Here, like many other traditional markets, bustling vendors hawking a wide range of merchandise, ranging from daily necessities, until pork is also available. Market from morning until late afternoon lunch.


I was amazed when returning to the village in the district Bonoran Kete Kesu, location Tongkonan traditional houses. There are twelve typical Toraja houses neatly lined up on both sides. Traditional roof Tongkonan glance like a buffalo horn.


"It's not a buffalo horn. That boat, "said Mr. John corrected. Historically, the ancestors of the Toraja is the first sailor. When he reached the mainland, they make a home by using their boats. In front of each custom home, almost always on display lined buffalo horns that have been sacrificed. Complete with a wooden replica of a buffalo head.


From one house that I attended, the condition is very simple, consisting only of three rooms, ie bedroom, living room and dining room. Kitchen, dining room, bathroom and even merged into one in the middle.


I was very curious when Sir John took me to the grave that is stored in the cave. On the cliffs, the mountains, the trees, now in the cave? It is rich in Toraja culture of respect for the dead. To the extent that they are willing to risk his life for the people to bury their loved ones in what they think is best.


This cave burial site in the area of ​​Londa, south of Ludhiana. To look into the cave, we must hire petromak lights for Rp 25,000. Entrance to this cave must be careful, the road is rather steep, narrow, and slippery. A-one could slip.


In it there is still a new body was buried two years ago. The casket was still intact. In contrast to many other coffin already fragile and perforated so that the bones were sticking out through. The offerings are also a lot of the pilgrimage made by citizens, such as cigarettes, flowers, water, or fruit. They are given as no provision is there in nature. Although the offerings are increasingly piling up, no one dared to take or just cleaning for fear of being haunted.


Go up some stairs on a hillside near the cave, Sir John showed the highest existing cemetery located almost at the top of steep cliffs. Almost perpendicular angle. I can not imagine how people can get there only to bury the corpse. Could come to be a little sloppy dead. But that, said Sir John, a dedication. "Those who do have to go to the experts. Into the armed only with bamboo as a buffer, "he said.


The higher one's position, the more luxurious body anyway. Often with expensive fabrics and jewelry. Therefore, usually the bodies of people like that is placed on the cliff top so difficult to achieve others.


For the Toraja, death is not an end. Indeed, death is the gateway to Puya, a new world. World where the ghosts come back to live together with the other animals were sacrificed. It was a high tribute to the death and life after death.


That's a little story of my trip in Toraja. Indeed, just one day, but I can not forget the unique culture of each minute search it. One day I will definitely come back to find out more, and explore more about life in Toraja society is understated.


A journalist and author, Patricia Schultz, entering Toraja in his book "1000 Places to See Before You Die". Now I know why he said so. In my heart, I nodded in agreement.


Sources: Kompasiana
Editor: I Made Asdhiana

Posted in: Toraja,Toraja traditional houses